A pair of well fitting, versatile dress slacks can be a well invested addition to your closet. Pants are easy to make, but hard to fit so here are some tools I’ve learned while fitting my pants.
Pick a pattern that you enjoy and matches your sewing skill level.
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| My Pattern |
I’ve chosen the Simplicity pattern 2562. This pattern is a traditional trouser that has a wide countered waistband that sits an inch under the natural waist.
Once you have your pattern, have your measurements taken (it’s best to have someone help you to get accurate measurements it’d be a tad difficult to take them yourself). Measure your waist, high hips, full hips, thigh, crotch length, crotch depth, and leg length. Use a piece of elastic tied around your waist to have as a reference of your natural waist. Compare your measurements to the measurements you take of your chosen pattern.
Measure your waist where the elastic sits (the smallest part of your torso).
Measure your high hip approximately 3inches below the waist line (about where your hip bones are located).
Measure around the fullest part of your hips, (the fullest part of your bum) located approximately 9inches from your waist.
Measure the fullest part of your upper thigh.
To measure your crotch length, sit on a flat surface and measure the distance from your waist to the fullest part of a thigh at an angle. **Tip: measuring at an angle instead of straight down to the table gives a measurement that is more accommodating for when you sit in your pants.
To measure your crotch depth, measure from the elastic around the waist in the front, through the legs to the elastic point in the back. **Tip: measure the distance from the elastic in the front to the center of the crotch (where the seam of a pair of pants crosses) and the distance from the back elastic to the center of the crotch so you can adjust the appropriate amount in the front and back of your pattern.
To measure the length of your pants, measure down the side of your body from your waist to your ankle bone. **Tip: when adjusting your pattern, make sure to account for your hem! (Around 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inch hem).
To have a pair of nice fitting trousers, there must be some wearing ease so they don’t fit snug like a pair of skinny jeans.
Waist: 1”
High Hip: 1”
Full hips: 2”-3”
Thigh: 2”-3”
Crotch length: 1”-2”
Crotch depth: ½”-1”
Make the adjustment to your pants for a custom fit and create a proto-type to strive for the best fitting pair of wool dress trousers in your closet!
