Tailoring: Sequence of construction for your tailored jacket

When sewing something as intricate and structured as a Tailored Blazer, the order must be given some attention. The fit of your jacket is affected by each component and adjust and move slightly as the construction of your jacket progresses. Here is the order in which the construction of my jacket has been done in to allow for a step by step map.

1.       Layout and cut your jacket pieces. (Find the best way to lay them out to save fabric and make sure they are all on grain!)

2.       Mark your fabric with an appropriate marking tool. (Make sure the markings will be able to washout without leaving an oil mark!)

a.       Mark notches

b.      Mark grain lines and center front

c.       Mark dots

d.      mark darts, pleats, gathers, and vents

e.      Mark seam allowances

f.        Mark any other tool on your pattern to help align your garment pieces

3.       Interface where necessary. (Research the appropriate interfacing. I recommend using fusible where possible!)

4.       Sew all darts and princess seams. (After sewing any seams make sure you press appropriately)

5.       Apply any pockets and bound buttonholes. (Make a sample first!)

6.       Sew in seam tape.

7.       Sew in front facings. (Pay attention to how to make your front edge seams roll under so they aren’t visible in the finished product!)

8.       Sew in shoulder seams and side seams. (First fitting: asses and adjustments needed.)

9.       Sew and shape the under collar. (Pay attention to your roll line!)

10.   Sew the under and upper collar together. (Trim, press, and shape: make sure the seams and corners aren’t bulky!)

11.   Apply the collar to the jacket. (Baste and check how it shapes before permanently stitching!)

12.   Sew together if have two piece sleeves and baste in. (Second fitting: Make sure the collar lies against the neck properly and the sleeves hang straight.) Permanently sew in sleeves.

13.   Sew in Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

14.   Finish your bound buttonhole or sew in machine buttonholes.

15.   Finish hem and vents.

16.   Sew on buttons or snaps.

17.   Steam your garment. (Make your garment shell look as if you were going to wear it without lining! It’s easier to steam and press without your lining in.)

18.   Make sure your lining pattern includes pleats and other fitting ease. Layout and Cut lining. (Be careful with slippery fabrics they like to move when you cut!)

19.   Sew up your lining seams.

20.   Hand sew in your lining.