Tailoring: Notched Collars

A Notched collar is the traditional collar seen on a tailored blazer. When shaped well, a notched collar is sharp, professional, and well fitted improving the quality of the look of your jacket.

1.       Start with your under collar.

a.       Make sure all your seams and your roll line is marked.

b.      Interface the under collar with a fusible interfacing. Keep interfacing out of the seam allowances to reduce bulk.

c.       Sew the center seam, stabilizing the edges and press open.

d.      Stitch on the roll line. Then stitch parallel every ¼” inch from the roll line to the curved edge.

e.      Folding right sides together on the roll line and press on a pressing ham to shape and make the collar stand on its own.

f.        Line up the straight edge of the upper collar and under collar and stitch from the corner on the rounded side, to the other side of the collar. Stay-stitch the edge.

g.       Miter the corners. Be careful not to cut too far so you don’t get frayed rabbit ears.

h.      Grade and clip the straight edge seam then turn the collar right side out.

i.         Press the collar. Make the seams and corner as flat as possible.

2.       Attach the Collar to the jacket.

a.       Right sides together, sew the under collar to the jacket starting at the back center front out. The end of the collar should match to the point where the lapel is sewn together.

b.      Right sides together sew the facing to the upper collar. Grade, clip and notch the seams between the facing and the neckline to remove any bulk.

c.       Stitch these seams together.

d.      Press and fold on roll line. Steam but DO NOT press roll line.